translation: raise the small tabs
Arrive the delicate parts: you cannot reach the center if you
don't remove the needle. However it is inserted in a very fine axis (8/10 mm or
0.03 in.) which breaks very easily. I tried to draw moderately (I
already broke 2 of them!), it does not come. In despair of cause I used one
paint burner (in weak " position " nevertheless) and here is the result below
(photo 1) . At least I could withdraw the central hub cap! I reassure
you, the needle then could be rectified about... Notice the circular black band
between the 3 studs, it avoids with the light produced by the 2 top bulbs
of going towards the center. It is there that you "modify"
for the green " light "! You replace this opaque round by a green Scotch tape
passing around the studs (photo 3) . Thus the light will come towards
the center, will pass through the hole of the needle axis , and will be
green (see photo at the bottom of the page) after
reflection on the center "hubcap" inside white paint...
If you manage to withdraw the needle (photo 2) you will have access to " the head " of the speedo ( and set to 0 the odometer )
Writing on pics are translated below the thumbnails.
With the needle removed , you can remove
If you could not remove the needle, you can perform nevertheless items 3 and 4.
To set to 0, clear up with the "miles" wheels while not forgetting to check by re-installing the unit (attention with " the forks " of each wheel : need to be engaged !). If you could not have access to " the head ", insert a tool spining the wheels (photo 8 and 8 (a)) and good luck if the odometer must pass from 20000 to 0... About my speedo, I passed from 89800 to 3350 miles (which is the value registered on the speedo i've to replace) and it takes me around 1/2 hour.
Adjustments: Good luck !! From the moment when you disturbed the speedo (switches, axes, etc.) it is necessary to re-calibrate the speedo and it is better to do it before going up in the dashboard. It's the reason why i must remove mine !!
to be known: 1000 rpm (of cable ) = 60 mph.
Thus if you turn the drive axis to 1000 rpm, the needle
must indicate " 60 ". I do not have values for the km/h speedo, would be
necessary to test; but you should have 1000 rpm = 96 kmh since nothing changes
between the trans. and the speedo head . On kph speedo the only things which are
different are the printing of the numbers and number of teeth of the odometer
Not having a drilling machine with rpm display I used a chronometer watch : I put the trip meter at 0, I put a square end (connected by flexible device to a drilling machine with constant speed) in the speedo cable drive. An helper holds the chronometer and " SIGNAL ", one puts the drilling machine and the chronometer on the way (attention at the drilling machine speed ...). The number of revolutions is constant thus you read the speed, i.e 35 mph. You continue during 1 mile and you stop the chronometer(and the drilling machine.). Exemple: 1 mn 14 s (= 74 s) a rapid calculation: 1 : 74 x 3600 = 48,6 mph. Thus it will be necessary to adjust. You need several tests to confirm
It is exactly what it happened to me : first, check that the needle is well on 0, then it is necessary to adjust the 3 adjustments (photo 7, 9 and below) : 0 stop , the tension of the spiral spring and... the needle to be turned while holding the "turning drum". Attention, it is fragile, therefore if the speedo is right with a margin of 10 %, avoid touching there. If not, to slacken (or retighten) the spiral spring then put the needle on 0. Re-test etc...
If you are at this stage, the speedo is good... for the dustbin!!
translation: aimant tournant = "rotating" magnet / butée (tournante) du 0 = "0" adjusting stop bracket
Note: real lighting is " less luminous " and the purple one is " deeper " ( " deep purple "....). Exposure time: 20 s.
And the other side?
much easier disassembling on the "gauges" side , except
the ammeter: indeed it functions by " induction ", emitted by the wire
where the intensity passes through: however to use this proprety the wire goes
through a closed loop which is connected to the apparatus, therefore it is
necessary to disconnect this wire (from " the ignition switch ") to withdraw
from the loop.
It should be noted that on the photographs, oil pressure gauge is missing and that the needles had been repainted for " a future " use...
lumière verte (violette) = green (purple) light
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